For my heavier sewing projects I use a "Chinese leather shoe patcher" hand crank machine which works very well for me. Small footprint, portable and cheap (readily available on Amazon for just over $100). A very crudely made machine that once cleaned up and tuned has worked very well for me. The 360° walking foot is very handy. I have sewn leather, canvas, rubber and even bound books with it. For the money I don't think it can be beat.
Hi Darren, I think I know exactly which machines you are talking about. To be perfectly honest, I would not personally recommend it to the average sewist. But with that said, I am glad it works for you!
I have a Techsew 810 for making shoes, and you are so right about that round needle. That caught me out for quite a while when I first got the machine. I think I've mastered the thing now, except the tension still gives me troubles. Without the markings on the tension dial, I'm always guessing and readjusting, and sometimes I think I've got it and then the thread somehow gets wedged in the tension discs?
I like to say I wish someone made an industrial machine with the features of my Bernina 570, but I'm sure I couldn't afford it if they did.
This was a great read, thanks for sharing all this info! I recently got a Juki TL-18 and it blows my Bernina 480 out of the water when it comes to sewing denim. Now I know why!
Great review of an important topic. A few years ago, a dry cleaner friend gave me a Juki 8700 DDL. In addition to everything you mentioned, what really stood out to me was how quiet and smooth the servo motor was and how fast it can sew (especially with the oil pan system). The weight of the machine and the solidity of the table really reduce vibration. I know that my Juki is on the light end of industrials but it still is a beast. No room for another industrial table, so I also have a sailrite LSZ since I really wanted a true walking foot machine in a small footprint. Thanks Cale - keep writing!
I worked briefly for David's Bridal doing alterations. We used industrial sewing machines on delicate, sometimes slippery fabric. I had to learn sewing in a different way. Then our store moved. They did not allocate the same amount of space, actually less, and there wasn't room for more than 6 machines. When they decided which machines to take, they weren't choosing the best like you'd think. I think they didn't know in advance that they could only take six and were given a very short turn around. So they weren't checked on quality, and the excess were just thrown away. But like you indicated, they were heavy and required a specialized technician.
I guess they got someone in to get those six up to par, as we didn't have too many problems.
I did not like sewing on them, but they did run all day if needed, which was in high season for weddings.
I really learned something from your article about how they operate and appreciate the differences. But I think I will stick with my home machine! :)
Hi Linda, you wouldn’t want a walking foot industrial for cotton, but machines like the DDL-8700 and DDL-8000 would do a great job. Also, Juki makes a portable semi-industrial machine called the TL-2010 and the TL-18. Both are great for cotton and offer more power than the typical domestic machine
Wish you could address the Janome M7 Continental in comparison to industrial Juki. Just bought one and had a needle break on 6 layers of upholstery fabric which had a glued backing. Surprised me.
The M7 is one of the most powerful home sewing machines on the market, but it is still a home sewing machine. Everything said in this article that compares industrial machines to domestic machines applies to the M7. If you’re going to do upholstery with 6 layers of fabric, a walking foot needle feed machine is recommended. I talk about this explicitly in section #3 “feeding heavier material”.
I completely disagree with you on "3. Less user-friendly than modern machines." . You are comparing older industrial machines with new modern domestic machines. Have you ever worked with a new modern computerized industrial machine, with all the auto thread-cutting, auto-backtracking, auto-footlifting, etc features? Plus you have a touch screen to change all the setting, including stitch length by 0.1mm.. It's a completely different experience.
I bought a needle feed straight stitcher for some leather upholstery. It's a great machine but is sitting idle at the moment. t's just occurred to me that with a smaller finer needle it might be suitable for quilting. The throat space is huge! It can't do free motion but could definitely handle thick layers ... what do you think?
Cale, you are awesome to be providing this little-known knowledge and insight into the tool we all love: our sewing machine! Now I understand how the industrial machine works because you took the time to explain and provide videos. Thank you so much for creating this newsletter! Aloha from Honolulu
I have often wished for an industrial machine but do not have space. I also regret parting with my 1970‘s Singer. What l really regret is buying a Bernina 480. l dread using it as it is so pernickity and guaranteed to lock, jam or give some irritating computer message. People keep telling me it is my fault l need to go on a course but hey the first machining 50 years to give me trouble. The trick it seems is to ol it every time it is used. Dratted thing.
I really want an industrial machine but want a cylinder arm with the flat bed attachment, I do bags and want to do boat canvas also which do,you like best, I’ve seen several never sewn on one.
Am just beginning to learn to sew and I loved how informative this article was. Thanks for sharing.
For my heavier sewing projects I use a "Chinese leather shoe patcher" hand crank machine which works very well for me. Small footprint, portable and cheap (readily available on Amazon for just over $100). A very crudely made machine that once cleaned up and tuned has worked very well for me. The 360° walking foot is very handy. I have sewn leather, canvas, rubber and even bound books with it. For the money I don't think it can be beat.
Hi Darren, I think I know exactly which machines you are talking about. To be perfectly honest, I would not personally recommend it to the average sewist. But with that said, I am glad it works for you!
I have a Techsew 810 for making shoes, and you are so right about that round needle. That caught me out for quite a while when I first got the machine. I think I've mastered the thing now, except the tension still gives me troubles. Without the markings on the tension dial, I'm always guessing and readjusting, and sometimes I think I've got it and then the thread somehow gets wedged in the tension discs?
I like to say I wish someone made an industrial machine with the features of my Bernina 570, but I'm sure I couldn't afford it if they did.
This was a great read, thanks for sharing all this info! I recently got a Juki TL-18 and it blows my Bernina 480 out of the water when it comes to sewing denim. Now I know why!
I am thinking to buy one but not sure … between Jack and Juki… I’ve seen a lot of videos of seminar using Jack in their tutorial…
*sewist
Great review of an important topic. A few years ago, a dry cleaner friend gave me a Juki 8700 DDL. In addition to everything you mentioned, what really stood out to me was how quiet and smooth the servo motor was and how fast it can sew (especially with the oil pan system). The weight of the machine and the solidity of the table really reduce vibration. I know that my Juki is on the light end of industrials but it still is a beast. No room for another industrial table, so I also have a sailrite LSZ since I really wanted a true walking foot machine in a small footprint. Thanks Cale - keep writing!
I worked briefly for David's Bridal doing alterations. We used industrial sewing machines on delicate, sometimes slippery fabric. I had to learn sewing in a different way. Then our store moved. They did not allocate the same amount of space, actually less, and there wasn't room for more than 6 machines. When they decided which machines to take, they weren't choosing the best like you'd think. I think they didn't know in advance that they could only take six and were given a very short turn around. So they weren't checked on quality, and the excess were just thrown away. But like you indicated, they were heavy and required a specialized technician.
I guess they got someone in to get those six up to par, as we didn't have too many problems.
I did not like sewing on them, but they did run all day if needed, which was in high season for weddings.
I really learned something from your article about how they operate and appreciate the differences. But I think I will stick with my home machine! :)
How do the industrial machines do with regular cotton fabric? Just curious. Thanks for this very informative article. Love them.
Hi Linda, you wouldn’t want a walking foot industrial for cotton, but machines like the DDL-8700 and DDL-8000 would do a great job. Also, Juki makes a portable semi-industrial machine called the TL-2010 and the TL-18. Both are great for cotton and offer more power than the typical domestic machine
Wish you could address the Janome M7 Continental in comparison to industrial Juki. Just bought one and had a needle break on 6 layers of upholstery fabric which had a glued backing. Surprised me.
The M7 is one of the most powerful home sewing machines on the market, but it is still a home sewing machine. Everything said in this article that compares industrial machines to domestic machines applies to the M7. If you’re going to do upholstery with 6 layers of fabric, a walking foot needle feed machine is recommended. I talk about this explicitly in section #3 “feeding heavier material”.
I completely disagree with you on "3. Less user-friendly than modern machines." . You are comparing older industrial machines with new modern domestic machines. Have you ever worked with a new modern computerized industrial machine, with all the auto thread-cutting, auto-backtracking, auto-footlifting, etc features? Plus you have a touch screen to change all the setting, including stitch length by 0.1mm.. It's a completely different experience.
I bought a needle feed straight stitcher for some leather upholstery. It's a great machine but is sitting idle at the moment. t's just occurred to me that with a smaller finer needle it might be suitable for quilting. The throat space is huge! It can't do free motion but could definitely handle thick layers ... what do you think?
Cale, you are awesome to be providing this little-known knowledge and insight into the tool we all love: our sewing machine! Now I understand how the industrial machine works because you took the time to explain and provide videos. Thank you so much for creating this newsletter! Aloha from Honolulu
I have often wished for an industrial machine but do not have space. I also regret parting with my 1970‘s Singer. What l really regret is buying a Bernina 480. l dread using it as it is so pernickity and guaranteed to lock, jam or give some irritating computer message. People keep telling me it is my fault l need to go on a course but hey the first machining 50 years to give me trouble. The trick it seems is to ol it every time it is used. Dratted thing.
I really want an industrial machine but want a cylinder arm with the flat bed attachment, I do bags and want to do boat canvas also which do,you like best, I’ve seen several never sewn on one.
I do like juki machines I have the tl 18qvp
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